A Self-Drive Scottish Adventure: Castles, Kilts & One Very Mysterious Loch
Scotland: the land of rolling hills, ancient castles, and a ZERO tolerance for drinking and driving (seriously, don’t even think about it). This 10-day self-drive tour was nothing short of spectacular—and occasionally a test of survival for an American behind the wheel. Narrow roads? Check. Poorly marked signs? Check. Driving on the wrong side of the car, on the wrong side of the road, on roads with posted speed limits of 60 mph? Oh, absolutely.
Sunrise, Sunset & Sweating Through It
Mid-May in Scotland means extra-long days, with the sun making its grand entrance at 4:50 a.m. and hanging around until well after 9:30 p.m.—perfect for sightseeing and according to locals, the best time to visit before the heavy summer crowds. Normally, temperatures sit comfortably in the 60s, but this trip turned up the heat. Most hotels don’t have air conditioning, but don’t panic! They offer fans, and the cool nights make it all very tolerable.
Edinburgh: History & Harry Potter Vibes
The journey kicked off in Edinburgh, where the Virgin Hotel stood proudly on a street straight out of Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. Walking in this historic city was easy as we walked almost 10 miles in one day. What about the local Scottish fare? The traditional Scottish breakfast, which includes blood pudding, and haggis, was surprisingly delicious! Just stay far, far away from Marmite—unless you enjoy what can only be described as “a mistake in a jar.”
Castles, Ruins & Stairs (So Many Stairs)
The drive from Edinburgh to Perth was a history buff’s dream—think castles, ruins, and stunning scenery. Just watch out for the midges (no-see-ums) as this is the season they come out! At Murrayshall Hotel, the charm was undeniable, but here’s a tip: no elevators mean you’ll get a free workout hauling your suitcase up the stairs (there are handicap rooms and suites available). On the bright side, the view, food and bar service were absolutely fantastic.
Inverness: Bagpipes & Bourbon (Sort Of)
Next up: Inverness, home to Inverness Castle under refurbishment and an inn, Kingsmill Hotel, featuring a roaming bagpiper—because why not? For whiskey and gin lovers, there are distilleries established in the 1700s in the villages that you drive through. I even developed a love for gin liqueurs! Just remember, while Scotland takes its whiskey seriously, remember that zero tolerance policy for drinking and driving. If you’re a history lover, a stop at Culloden Battlefield is a must. And if you can trace your family back to the Jacobites, the Visitor Center can even find your ancestor’s historical tartan. It’s not all war monuments and sadness here. A look at the surrounding fields provides a moment to appreciate the Highland Cow in its luxurious long-haired wonder and cuteness.
Highland Games: A Must-See Spectacle
Luckily, the Highland Games were taking place at Gordon Castle – located close by in the village of Fochabers on the banks of the River Spey - an event bursting with local pride, crafts, impressive feats of strength, and enough kilts to last a lifetime. Fun fact: when the bagpipe bands all play together and the drum corps begins, the earth shakes like Nessie is coming to shore! Get tickets early—this is an event you won’t want to miss.
Loch Lomond & The Hunt for Nessie
The three-and-a-half-hour drive from Inverness to Loch Lomond included the breathtaking, rugged beauty of the hills of the Highlands and the ever-changing vistas along the winding roads around the lochs.
The next stop? The stunning Cameron House at Loch Lomond—think spiral staircases, turrets, and million-dollar sports cars casually parked outside. A trip to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle was mandatory, but alas, Nessie must have been taking a personal day.
Glasgow: Art, Pints & The End of the Road
Finally, Glasgow—a historical yet artsy city, packed with museums, galleries, and plenty of places to grab a pint. Never ask if they “have anything smaller than a pint” as the pub patrons laughs will be at your expense. The Address Hotel – chic, yet quiet and cozy, wrapping up this unforgettable trip on the perfect note.
Final Thoughts
Scotland delivered on history, beauty, and adventure—from the towering William Wallace Monument, standing sentinel over a battlefield from 1290, to the millennia-old castles whose weathered stone walls whisper secrets of the past. Walking through ruins that predate the United States by centuries is a humbling experience, and every winding road leads to yet another glimpse into the timeless legacy of Scotland. The locals were kind, even if, on occasion, they seemed just as baffled as the travelers navigating their historic homeland.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat—though maybe next time, I’ll leave all the driving to my husband or even the Scots.
Travel completed by the Ceriani Family; permission granted to summarize their adventures.